SPRING SUMMER 2023
An embracing of femininity, an assertion of values, a celebration of craft. The Spring/Summer 2023 Victoria Beckham collection marks the brand’s debut in Paris — a shift of locale, a recontextualisation, proposes a different perspective, on the new and the established. It is a re-affirmation of the brands hallmarks and codes, alongside a fresh view on the modern.
Silhouettes underscore the heritage of Victoria Beckham: masculine constructed tailoring alongside sinuous, sensual dresses, reminiscent of lingerie, conscious of the body. Both semaphore a poise and confidence, convey a self-assured air albeit through polar opposites. Dichotomies animate the collection, shifting between soft and hard, structured and fluid. Throughout, there is a respect and love for craft, and an elevation of a woman.
The dress is celebrated, in an expression of femininity. Bias and spiral cutting explore a softness, a strength evoked through delicacy. Tailoring is deconstructed, sliced away to reveal the inner canvassed construction of pieces, alongside the body itself. By simple reduction, pieces are transformed, the intrinsically masculine can become inherently feminine through a direct act of cut.
Sensuality is evoked through fabrics and cuts that tenderly hold the body - seams softly gathered, fabric draped around the figure - and expressed through trompe l’oeil prints and bonding techniques, leaving reminders of sartorial details traced in a topography of cloth. Abstract prints of shells - tactile, delicate spaces, inherently feminine - are overlaid in semi-transparent fabrics, the motion of the form beneath generating a friction and dynamism.
Lace opens windows onto the skin - here demarcated through a monogram design, toying with games of concealing and revealing. There is a playful sexiness - kinetic tassels of fringe animate brief silhouettes, kinky latex underpins chiffons. Showing in Paris, silk-jersey puckers up, to form a heart.